Craft Beers, Covid, and Community

Ann Arbor brewpubs and their reconnection to their community

—By Reian Zhang

After turning 21 and joining the world of alcohol, I bought my first case of beer, a 24-pack of Bud Light. It seemed like a safe choice: I had always seen ads about it, there was an entire section dedicated to the brand, and I got the last case. However, after taking my first sip at home, I learned I disliked beers, or so I thought. Two weeks later, a waiter accidentally gave me my first craft beer, a sour IPA, instead of lemonade, and that reignited my curiosity for beer. Now, I am obsessed!

What are craft beers?

Craft beers are artisanal all-natural beers that are usually brewed locally and consist of locally sourced materials. These beers are usually sold in brewpubs or taprooms, where people can enjoy. What makes these beers so special are their unique flavors. Craft beers can be any variation of sour, bitter, sweet, and fruity. Having these different flavors allows people to explore and learn more about their taste preferences. 

The first step of brewing craft beers is harvesting grains and running them through a malting process. This creates starch enzymes that can be used to break down and release sugars. Next, these enzymes are activated creating a syrupy substance called wort. The wort is boiled and hops, a bitter fruit that balances the sugary taste, is added. Finally, yeast is added which will ferment the boiled liquid into alcohol and carbon dioxide. After two to three weeks of fermenting, beer is created. Variability in any of these steps can produce special flavors. For example, using different types of yeast such as lactobacillus and pediococcus can produce lactic acid which creates a sour flavor that many people love.

How did craft beers get introduced into Ann Arbor?

American craft beers were strongly influenced by European traditions. Having a rich history in novel brewing techniques and experimentation, European countries spread their knowledge of beer-making to the United States through immigration. Michigan, home to many European immigrants, ranks 6th in the United States for having 398 craft breweries producing 802,988 barrels each year. Ann Arbor, a city with a high German immigrant population, was heavily influenced by European traditions, allowing for the opening of their first brewery in 1838. Although commercial brewing took a hit during the Prohibition and Great Depression, the first brewpub, Arbor Brewing Company, was introduced into the Ann Arbor area in 1995 by Matt and Rene Greff. This kick-started the craft beer scene in Ann Arbor. For the past 20 years, countless unique and successful brewpubs have also opened their doors: Grizzly Peak, Jolly Pumpkin, Blue Tractor, HOMES, and many others. In an interview with the Michigan Daily, Rene Greff said that what makes craft beers special is “partly flavor, partly quality—but I think even more importantly is the local aspect: Being engaged with and knowing the people who make your beer. There’s a whole community feel.”

What is the model for success?

In Michigan, there have been a couple of successful craft beer breweries that have set a standard for others to follow. Two notable companies, Founders and Bell’s, follow a distribution model, allowing them to sell their products in stores across the state. Although many smaller breweries strive to find success in this fashion, there slowly has been a shift in what is considered a successful model to aim for. HOMES brewery, a newer brewpub that opened in 2017, is more focused on servicing the community of Ann Arbor rather than cities across the entire state. This trend of finding unique ways to bring together the Ann Arbor community has been gaining traction amongst brewpubs in Ann Arbor. From monthly beer tasting series to new beer tap flavor drops, brewpubs are giving people a reason to go out with their friends or meet other craft beer enthusiasts. Ian Blackman-Staves, a senior studying physics at UM, frequents HOMES brewery and Arbor Brewing Company on the weekends. He “finds that the ambience of brewpubs allows [him] to de-stress and have a good time with [his] friends.” Not only have these brewpubs started reaching students from UM, but people have started trading groups with craft beer enthusiasts nationwide. Since craft beers are so dependent on local traditions and brewing materials, it is nearly impossible to recreate the exact brew somewhere else. Furthermore, since local breweries are trying to stay away from the larger distribution models that have been adopted by industrialized beer companies like Anheuser-Busch brands, certain craft beers are unique to their location. Therefore, building these relationships and trading with other craft beer enthusiasts nationwide is an exciting and rewarding process. After talking to two older clients at HOMES brewpub, I learned that they first met each other in line waiting for HOMES monthly new can drops. “When we were in line that one day, we started off talking about our favorite breweries then the conversation migrated to our home brewing setup. Now we are good friends who make beer together.”

How did Covid impact local brewpubs?

Although the pandemic negatively impacted many businesses nationwide, small local businesses that were not well-integrated online were impacted the most. Brewpubs in Ann Arbor had revenue streams that heavily relied on in-person sales. Not only was business disrupted, but it forced many owners to put a pause on their companies’ mission. Tommy Kennedy, the owner of HOMES brewery, says that the reason he started HOMES brewery is because he is “the type of person who enjoys bringing people together to build community and have fun.” However, due to the pandemic, there was no way to keep afloat without switching to an online distribution model. Kennedy explains that “the upside of Covid is that buying and selling craft beers become easier online with curbside pickup, but we really see the value of lining up and meeting others.” Committed to the Ann Arbor community, Kennedy plans to phase out the online services, and when it is safe, return to in-person activity and can drops. Fortunately, HOMES’ online sales have been great, especially with the drop of a new smoothie alcoholic drink called Smooj. Seeing this success, Kennedy plans to use the new revenue to bolster HOMES in-person operations. In fact, HOMES expanded to a new venue called the campus, where there is an art gallery, coffee shop, and a taproom. Kennedy is hoping that this will give more opportunities for the Ann Arbor community to connect and grow.

What can you do?

Speaking to Kennedy and hearing him explain how HOMES brewery is constantly inventing new ways to support the well-being of his community was eye opening. It made me ask myself, what am I doing to support my community? Taking ownership and responsibility of your community is a civic duty that is easily forgotten. With the pandemic starting to come to an end, now more than ever is it important to be there for our community. HOMES and other brewpub’s commitment to Ann Arbor is an important step in trying to normalize the effects of the pandemic. If local businesses are committed, we should as well. As mask policies start to relax and we reintegrate and reconnect with our community, think about your local businesses and find a way to do your part. Having not seen a few of my friends and family members in a while, I already started sending texts and making phone calls to connect again. In fact, this weekend I am taking my best friend of 10 years, Ted Orr, to HOMES to try their most recognized IPA called same same different. Everytime I see him, he would always tell me, “good friends are like stars. You don’t always see them, but you know they’re always there.”

Featured Image: HOMES restaurant’s sour IPA called Same Same Different. Photo Credit: Reian Zhang