TikTok “Skinfluencers”
Can TikTok skincare hacks really be trusted?
—By Marina Khreizat
Cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen—the holy trinity in skincare. Skincare routines are essential in helping to protect one’s skin from acne, scarring, and sun damage. Whether your skin type is dry, oily, normal, or a combination of all, having a healthy skincare regimen can prevent the formation of wrinkles and lead to a lifetime of youthful-looking skin.
Every individual develops their own skincare routine in different ways—whether by reading magazines, speaking with board-certified dermatologists, or even by experimenting with different products themselves. Today, however, social media platforms, specifically TikTok, take the lead in teaching young adults about skincare hacks and products that they should incorporate into their everyday skincare routine. But are the trendy products and skincare hacks posted by TikTok “skinfluencers” actually trustworthy and effective?
The rise of TikTok
TikTok is currently one of the most successful video apps in the world, averaging about a billion users on the app every month. For many TikTok users, a five-minute break on the app can easily turn into hours. The addictive characteristics of the app are all thanks to the clever algorithms that create a “For You Page,” a curated feed of short videos that are individualized based on the user’s unique interests. The algorithms use data based on a TikTok user’s time spent watching each video on their feed, as well as their likes, comments, and hashtags. The content that typically goes viral on TikTok include short-form videos—ranging from fifteen seconds to three minutes—that usually incorporate visual or comedic components and catchy music. These characteristics vary greatly from the traditional information that board-certified dermatologists share when discussing skincare with patients, giving an edge to TikTok “skinfluencers” in receiving greater engagement in the app as compared to physicians.
SkinTok
SkinTok is a sub-community of TikTok that includes all things skincare—from the best products to use, techniques to clear acne, and methods to properly moisturize the face. Celine Nasser and Rana Chouaib are two University of Michigan undergraduate students who are part of the SkinTok subcommunity.
According to Nasser, “about 10% of my For You Page includes skincare or beauty related videos.” Like Nasser, Chouaib’s For You Page is also composed of various skincare-related videos. Chouaib explains, “I enjoy watching these videos very much because they teach me about different brands, ingredients, and methods to apply my skincare. It’s also pleasing to watch others take care of their skin in terms of improving their health.”
A research study assessing the top TikTok videos on 8 different dermatologic conditions found that the most common content creators (48%) were patients themselves whereas 25.8% were board-certified dermatologists. However, when assessing the reliability of TikTok dermatologic content, educational videos created by dermatologists themselves were 50% more likely to be reliable than educational videos created by other sources.
While the information provided by dermatologists on TikTok may be more accurate, Chouaib prefers watching SkinToks created by everyday people. She says, “Although I enjoy information from dermatologists, it is nice to see what worked for other people and gain real life insight on experiences with the product.”
TikTok skincare tip #1: “slugging”
“Slugging” is a skincare hack that involves applying Vaseline or another occlusive product on the face to help retain moisture overnight. The occlusive product like Vaseline helps to lock in moisture and prevent water loss on the skin, leading your face to look shiny and slimy like a slug—hence the name “slugging.” While this method is not new, the trend first became viral in South Korea, later on Reddit, and eventually made its way to TikTok. “Skinfluencers” recommend that individuals place a small amount of Vaseline (or other occlusive ointments like Aquaphor or CeraVe) on the face at night after completing one’s normal skincare regimen. Nasser claims that after learning about the technique on TikTok and trying it out for herself, she noticed that her skin was more hydrated and slightly more clear over time.
However, board-certified dermatologists like Dr. Fatima Fahs (@dermy_doctor on Instagram), caution that individuals on TikTok might not follow the slugging method correctly, as applying too much Vaseline to the skin can lead to a breakout. Additionally, individuals who are really oily or acne prone are not recommended to try out this hack.
As Dermy Doctor explains on her Instagram, “if you are really oily or acne prone, you should likely avoid this step all together because you don’t necessarily want to be trapping inflamed acne or oil on your skin.” Additionally, doctors do not recommend slugging over harsh skincare products such as retinol.
- The verdict: It works but is not recommended to those with sensitive, acne-prone, or oily skin.
TikTok skincare tip #2: dermaplaning
Dermaplaning is a skincare technique where one uses a sharp blade to remove the top layer of skin and tiny vellus hairs on the face (also known as peach fuzz). A popular skincare video on TikTok with over 1.2 million likes, recommends that individuals use a dermaplaning tool/eyebrow razor and shave in short downward strokes. The video also recommends that individuals use an oil or gel on the face to prevent irritating the skin.
Chouaib explains how she learned about the dermaplaning technique from TikTok. According to Chouaib, the videos on dermaplaning allowed her to, “learn different tricks to make it more of a smooth process.” Chouaib also added that she “noticed a difference due to dermaplaning like brighter and cleaner skin.”
Dr. Muneeb Shah, a board certified dermatologist with over 13 million followers on TikTok, explains the science behind why dermaplaning works. He says on his TikTok, “it removes the very top layer of the skin called the stratum corneum. This is going to improve skin texture, going to help layer makeup better, and it’s also going to help your other skincare ingredients penetrate the skin.”
Dr. Shah cautions, however, that dermaplaning is not the same thing as shaving, as the blade is sharper and goes deeper into the skin. Dr. Shah also warns not to dermaplane over acne or pimples as it will make inflammation worse. On his TikTok, he recommends that individuals dermaplane no more than once or twice a month because you do not want to over-exfoliate the skin. Another aspect of dermaplaning to be cautious about is that the shaving technique can potentially spread the bacteria called C. acnes linked with acne, damage the skin barrier, and lead to breakouts if done incorrectly.
- The verdict: It works but is safer and highly recommended to do with professionals such as dermatologists or licensed estheticians.
TikTok skincare tip #3: double cleansing
Many individuals at the end of the day wash their face one time to remove all the excess oils, makeup, and dirt that builds up over time. However, SkinTok showed us another method: double cleansing. A famous TikTok demonstrates the importance of double cleansing by using an orange for demonstration purposes. After applying foundation on the orange (used to represent our skin) and using a single cleanser to remove it, the video shows how the orange still has makeup residue leftover. Double cleansing is essentially a method of washing your face twice, using two different products.
Dr. Whitney Bowe, a board-certified dermatologist on TikTok explains, “double cleansing is actually using two different cleansers. So first you actually start with dry skin and you use either a cleansing balm or a cleansing oil and you massage that into your skin. Now once your skin has been massaged you can start to see some of the mascara break down. Then you splash your face with warm water, and then you follow it—you take a couple pumps of your water based cleanser.”
Dr. Bowe warns that double cleansing is more stripping to the skin, so only recommends this skincare tip if you are wearing waterproof/heavy makeup in the day or are wearing waterproof sunscreen.
- The verdict: Yes, if you are wearing heavy makeup, but it is not recommended for everyday use.
Can SkinTok be trusted?
SkinTok can be an amazing resource for individuals trying to learn more about how to improve their skin. However, users need to be wary about the tips and tricks that they watch on their For You Page. There are countless skincare hacks that are harmful and pose serious risks to the health of individuals if not done correctly. Furthermore, while “skinfluencers” do a great job highlighting all of the amazing benefits of their skincare routine/products, they rarely mention the harms or caveats that users need to be aware of. By “skinflueners” only selecting the positive outcomes of their routines to share, SkinTok viewers are left with the responsibility to fact-check these skincare tips for themselves.
One way SkinTok viewers can assess whether a skincare hack is effective and beneficial is to search for a board-certified dermatologist reviewing the effectiveness of the hack before trying it out themselves. It is always safest to trust advice provided or endorsed by board-certified dermatologists rather than a “skinfluencer.” Some unique features of TikTok to look out for include the “stitch” or “duet” tool in which dermatologists respond to videos posted by “skinfluencers” on TikTok and determine whether the hack is actually harmful or beneficial for the skin. For example, Dr. Shah duets this TikTok skincare hack where the user shows her “secret to clear skin” by including all the natural ingredients she includes in her face mask.
The future of SkinTok
SkinTok has most certainly changed the game in skincare marketing and awareness, even among individuals who consider themselves skincare enthusiasts such as Chouaib and Nasser. TikTok has allowed skincare education to be a more accessible and interesting topic that young adults can engage with on a day-to-day basis. Dermatologists now have the ability to turn to TikTok to share messages about improving dermatologic health for millions across the world. Indeed, the future of skincare awareness and knowledge is bright thanks to the creation of the SkinTok subcommunity.
For individuals who are a part of SkinTok, Nasser leaves users with the following advice, “follow dermatologists and use their knowledge and advice to guide what you choose to follow from influencers or everyday people. Always understand the science behind skincare and avoid trends for the sake of being trendy!”
Feature photo by Engin Akyurt on Unsplash