The Conscious Consumer: Is Thrifting Actually Ethical?
Why we should be careful about buying second-hand
─By Alex Andersen
The rich turquoise-green of the sweatpants caught my eye immediately in the aisle of jumbled up donated clothing that stretched nearly ten yards to the back wall of the thrift store. I walked briskly over to the piece, located in the men’s section, snatching the hanger off the rack to admire the pants to reveal a salient black and white stripe down the side. Straight-cut and oversized, they extended a few inches past my ankles when pressed against my legs to preview their fit. With a little bit of tailoring, they could easily be transformed into the perfect pair of joggers, one nobody owned but me.
The appeal of finding unique and affordable clothing drives many young people towards thrift stores. Thrifting has significantly risen in popularity in the last year or two, particularly among younger generations; nearly half of Gen Z-ers, or people born between 1995 and 2014, purchased second-hand in 2019. The total secondhand market is predicted to surpass fast fashion by 2029.
Not only is thrifting cheaper, but it’s more sustainable than buying clothes firsthand. It contrasts with fast fashion, one of the largest contributors to waste, water usage, and greenhouse gas emissions.
Events like the deadly garment factory collapse in Bangladesh in 2013 have led to more widespread criticism of fast fashion, spurring a shift towards more ethical consumption. The rise in popularity among younger consumers specifically can perhaps be attributed to generational differences in political views. According to McKinsey’s “The State of Fashion 2019” report, Gen Z-ers express more concern about climate change than older generations.
While thrifting promotes sustainability, its recent uptake is concentrated among higher-income individuals, particularly entrepreneurs who spark controversy by reselling thrifted items for a profit.
Some argue that higher-income individuals who thrift but could easily afford other sustainable options are “stealing from the poor.” Rising prices among thrift stores due to increased interest has created a so-called gentrification of thrifting, making the previously accessible secondhand items less affordable for lower-income individuals who may rely on thrifting.
This argument generates the questions: Who should thrift? Is thrifting really as ethical as it seems? The simple answer: it’s complicated.
The Secondhand Advantage
There is already an excess of firsthand clothing being produced, majority ending up in landfills. The current fast fashion industry is anything but cyclical: apparel is made, purchased, then discarded when trends fade. Much of the production is unethical, with sweatshops and fast fashion companies like H&M taking advantage of workers by not providing adequate pay nor safe and clean working conditions. Thrifting, on the other hand, keeps clothing in a cycle where it’s consumed, donated back, or repurposed.
“It’s natural for humans to want to recycle. We recycle money, we recycle our houses, and all these other things, and that translates into clothing,” says Jacob Ward, a junior studying in the School of Music, Theatre, and Dance at University of Michigan.
Ward is also the founder of SCARBO, a digital arts community dedicated to collaboration and inclusivity. In addition, Ward is the Digital Fashion Editor for SHEI Magazine, University of Michigan’s official student-run arts, fashion, and culture publication that uses nearly all secondhand fashion for photoshoots.
For digital issues that SHEI releases each month, fashion members utilize garments thrifted from Ann Arbor stores like Salvation Army and Ragstock, as well as pieces they pull from their own wardrobes.
Thrift stores allow individuals and organizations like SHEI Magazine to discover unique apparel and accessories at discounted prices and in a sustainable way. “The whole ritual of entering the store and having no idea what you’ll come out with is a fun aspect of thrifting,” notes Natalie Guisinger, a senior and Art Major at the University of Michigan.
For her, the eco-conscious aspect of thrifting came second, originally having thrifted with friends in high school out of boredom and as it began to rise in popularity.
Now, Guisinger buys nearly all second hand clothing. She’s drawn to the cyclical nature of thrifting, knowing that she will also donate unused clothing back.
Sophie Smith, a senior in high school who plans on attending University of Michigan as a business major in Fall 2021, shares a similar passion for thrifting. Sophie runs an Instagram account where she resells thrifted clothing.
“The fact that you get to extend the life of a piece of clothing that already has a story behind it is super cool,” Sophie remarked about thrifting. She tapped into a newly emerging market of young girls in her more affluent neighborhood interested in vintage clothing. This style ranges from old rock band graphic tees to boxy Levis to silk slip dresses.
While thrift stores are rising in popularity among higher-income individuals, they still keep affordable clothing accessible to lower-income communities.
Ward spoke about the importance of thrift stores for lower-income communities, allowing lower-income individuals to purchase items such as formal wear, winter coats, and other basic necessities: “It’s one of those essential resources for lower-income communities that should never go away.”
Potential Pitfalls
While thrifting is known for its discounted prices, secondhand items have risen in cost over the past decade, according to Goodwill’s 2020 report. This uptick in prices is perhaps attributed to thrifting’s increasing popularity, which thrift stores may also be taking advantage of, raising their prices to match a higher demand.
Because increasing popularity is concentrated among middle- and upper-class individuals, the rising prices may disproportionately affect lower-income communities; this gentrification of thrifting makes clothing less affordable and accessible.
Another concern is that affluent individuals will monopolize thrift stores and buy up all of the clothing; consequently, fewer items of clothing will be left for lower-income individuals.
Whether or not the gentrification of thrifting leaves a shortage of clothing for those in need, particularly essential items like winter coats, is still heavily debated. Thrift stores only sell a very small fraction of the clothing they receive through donations. They send the remaining (and large) unsold portion to landfills or overseas to developing countries, a practice that could harm jobs for local textile workers, according to BBC.
Ward, who thrifts out of necessity, reflects on his experience: “I started thrifting the most when I got to college. And it was out of financial necessity. It started when I had concerts, but they had a strict dress code… at U-M you need to have a tuxedo.” Ward ended up getting a suit jacket from the Salvation Army, which was much more affordable than buying firsthand.
“What economic bracket does it stop where you shouldn’t shop at thrift stores anymore?” Ward asks. “I think it’s a necessity for everyone. And the thing is, there’s so much fabric waste that we are not going to run out of clothes.”
Regardless of whether or not the gentrification argument is supported, it’s important to note the social and cultural implications of thrifting. The trend reflects a glorification of secondhand clothing by affluent individuals, something that has historically been stigmatized for the poor. Social acceptance of thrifting does not necessarily imply reduced class prejudice.
Taking Action
With both the advantages and drawbacks considered, there are a few things we can do as consumers.
First and foremost, check your closet. Examine what you already have and what you need. Consider repurposing old clothing for other things or exchange clothing with friends and family. Donating back to thrift stores what you don’t plan on wearing, rather than discarding it.
If you need more clothing, buy secondhand when possible. Look for items that are durable and timeless, unlike most fast fashion.
Most importantly, thrift consciously. “Know where you are, and just be respectful. It’s all about respect,” says Ward. Set yourself thrifting guidelines. “There are some rules that I now abide by,” which Guisinger also refers to as “commandments” for herself. “It’s important to not purchase coats and winter items to allow lower income people to purchase the items, along with oversized items, and especially business attire.”
The Big Picture
Changing the way we consume is critical to dealing with the climate crisis. While thrifting is much more sustainable than fast fashion, it’s still a form of consumption. Materialist values are deeply embedded in American culture, which will take greater time and effort to change.
“We have been indoctrinated into thinking that constant consumption is so necessary when it really isn’t,” explains Guisinger. “That’s just something we all have to slowly unlearn as Americans.”
Featured image: Back in Time. Photo Credit: Becca McHaffie via Unsplash.com