Ann Arbor After Hours
Partygoers and bar hoppers are the fuel that keeps the engine of these late-night eateries running
—by Saintphanie Porcenat
“Please tell me you guys still have food!” The customer leaned over my register and sighed in relief when I reassured him, we were fully stocked.
Late-night eateries like my job, BTB Burrito, face the issue of keeping up with the high volume of customers flocking to the few restaurants open past 2am when the bars close.
During the week these eateries are fairly empty. Other than the students stopping for a bite after a study session at Hatcher Library or night workers finally getting their dinner on the way home, there’s not a lot of business on the average weeknight. But once the weekend hits, the regulars come out to play. The “weekend craze” begins on Thursday and usually doesn’t end until Sunday. This is when the highest volume of partygoers and bar hoppers make their way to downtown Ann Arbor.
Most bars like Ricks and Skeeps, as well as clubs like Study Lounge and Necto, are packed to the brim until 2am when they shut down, prompting a mass exodus to the few eating establishments still open. From all directions and in several different conditions of sobriety, people make their way to restaurants like NYPD, Pizza House, Fleetwood Diner and most importantly, BTB Burrito. These places have become almost infamous because of this trend. Each establishment has a rich history as they developed into the hotspots they are today but in order to stay relevant and trendy in the future they may need to make some changes as well.
The BTB Bustle
The original intent for BTB according to its owners, was to be a convenient and fast eatery focused on getting customers in and out with healthy food. The restaurant was created in 2004 by Adam Lowenstein, a UM grad, and Justin Herrick who originally wanted to make a chain of these restaurants for students, one on each Big Ten Campus (the restaurant renounced its former Big Ten Burrito title and settled with BTB due to copywriting issues). In the end, they had to think smaller and settled for one while they explored other business opportunities in the Ann Arbor area. Growth over time has led to multiple bar and club ownerships including Live, Alley Bar, Cantina, Good Time Charlie’s, and more.
The backbone of these restaurants? The employees willing to work ten-hour or more shifts from one day into the next and handle the customers. “Depending on whether its football or basketball season we could get a rush that lasts hours,” says Scott, a manager at BTB. “Most people come in couples or groups so we could even make it to as many as 1,000 orders in a night.” Whether it’s the late-night hours, or the drunken customers, there is never a dull moment. Within ten minutes, I’ve gone from serving only one customer to yelling over the bustling crowd as a line stretches out the door. In situations like that, every employee needs to be on their toes. “It’s kind of like a workout,” explains Robbie, a fellow cashier. “We have to be able to take an order while handing one out and run to the back to get a side of queso but still make it back to the front in time to pick up the phone that’s been ringing for five minutes. All while being personable and welcoming so that we can make good tips.” After shaking his head and laughing he continues, “It’s rough but we’re known for our fast service, so we do our best to uphold that.” Luckily for us, our hard work pays off. Once people experience biting into a burrito after a long night out, we can usually count on seeing them again the next weekend. A few weeks later? They’ve become a regular and their tips serve as a cushion for dealing with any vomit or drunk ranting.
There is a downside to being a trendy hotspot in Ann Arbor; their restaurants become known for late-night service and so there’s not much revenue coming in from the day shift. “We get most of our money from the night shift on the weekends. We’ve come to rely on the rush, as difficult as it is. Without it I’m not sure this place would still be here over ten years later,” says Scott.
Especially since there aren’t any advertising techniques to spread the word about the restaurant. I asked a few customers how they discovered BTB and it was either through word-of-mouth, or by being brought to eat with a group of friends. They rely on notoriety and, with their location right on central campus, on students sharing the trend with those who are new to the university.
Catering to the late-night city prowlers may be difficult, considering those who work nights have longer shifts, need to get paid more per hour, and need a large team on staff to cover all the duties. However, throughout the day a lot of the customers that come in are alumni coming back to campus to grab a bite simply for nostalgia’s sake. It’s clear that this eatery has had a lasting impact on the customer’s experience not only on campus, but in Ann Arbor as well. “If places like this weren’t available, I’d probably cry myself to sleep,” said one student as he grabbed his to-go bag. “I get the same grilled chicken burrito every time and it never disappoints!”
With more and more students arriving to campus each year, eateries like this may need to update to remain a go-to late night restaurant. “We don’t see too much competition from other establishments in the future but there are always new places springing up in Ann Arbor and we want to stay relevant,” says Scott. To him the most important thing is to continue to streamline and make the deliveries and in-house orders more efficient. He even hopes that one day we’ll be able to deliver until close at 4am rather than ending at midnight- a change that will require more staff and resources but “it’s doable, and it’s a change we’re hoping to implement soon.”
Staying Relevant
Things are pretty similar at Fleetwood Diner for Dana, who’s been a server at the 24-hour restaurant over the past few years. “Fleetwood first opened in the mid to late sixties. It’s pretty much been a staple since then. Popularity grew through word-of-mouth but when I get bored during the day shift, I like to make flyers.” Since they’re open all night, instead of closing at 4am like we thankfully get to at BTB, they need to be a little tougher to deal with the customers. “The majority of the people who come in during the night shift are wasted. You’ve got your college kids, townies, party people and, later, the bar staff. It can get crazy and at times we’ve had a line down the block but that’s just business.”
Looking at their tiny building on the corner of South Ashley St. I’d expected them to have plans for expansion so they could house more customers and have more space for employees. However, over at Fleetwood, they’re hoping to stay true to their roots as small, cozy diner that’ll make you the best Hash Browns in the city. “We’re charming because of how classic we are. I don’t think that needs to or will change anytime soon. But if I could have a dishwasher during that night shift it would be great,” Dana laughed.
It’s All About the Customers
Ann Arbor is known for its variety of restaurants, from higher priced establishments like The Black Pearl to more student-centered eateries like Ahmer’s deli. In order to break from the mold and gather their own following, these late-night eateries have had to embrace the nightlife as well as the good, the bad, and the ugly that comes along with it. When I first applied for the job, I was warned by Adam that I would meet a lot of characters but that the job would always keep me on my toes and I’d be a master multitasker within a few months. So far, that’s held true. I’ve now become friendly with officers from the Ann Arbor Police Department, UM Graduate students, bouncers from the night club Necto and employees of another late-night establishment, Cottage Inn. These regulars have become people I see every week who I wouldn’t otherwise have met. I think it’s more than our hours and coma-inducing food that keeps people coming back; it’s us employees and our dedication to service despite all the difficulties. Considering how many people have shouted their appreciation on their way out the door, there’s some merit to the theory. Some days you may even find Adam (aka the bossman himself) rolling burritos past midnight and shaking hands with his customers. After ringing up our 315th customer of the night Robbie turned to me with a smile. “No joke, I’ve had drunk people come in and order a chimichanga and then three minutes later turn around and say where’s my quesadilla? They’re not perfect. But they’re ours and we love them.”